3D Printers for Creative Professionals – MakerBot Replicator 5th Generation Alternatives

4 stars based on 79 reviews

Hardened Steel, Stainless Steel, and Brass. Generally speaking, nozzles are classified in the following ways: The industry leader for quality hotends is E3Dwhich is makerbot print shop alternative we recommend and sell their products to our customers as an upgrade or as a replacement for a failing stock hotend.

Often imitated, seldom duplicated, the E3D machine shop does a better job than anyone else at creating high-quality parts that work reliably. For this reason, most of the nozzles we sell are E3D, though it is important to note that more printers are being designed, if not with an E3D hot makerbot print shop alternative, with threading that allows for installation of E3D nozzles.

With the Olsson Block upgrade, the block is separate from the nozzle and has threading that is compatible with E3D nozzles. Nozzles are made from a variety of metals, and you should select a nozzle made from the type of metal that matches the type of filament you want to print with.

The main reason for this is fairly simple: The Olsson Ruby nozzle is actually tipped with a real ruby. Nozzles come in lots of different shapes and sizes, but they all perform the same function. The smallest nozzles at least that are commercially available are 0. On the other end of the spectrum, larger makerbot print shop alternative again, of those commercially available range up to 1. These allow for quicker, larger prints, generally speaking.

So makerbot print shop alternative would you want to have more than one nozzle? Though you can probably make do with the standard 0. Failure to heat the hot end before changing the nozzle is the most common reason for a broken nozzle.

Use a tool like an adjustable wrench or channel locks to steady the heat block, while you use a socket wrench to turn the nozzle. E3D nozzles are 7mm, for reference. We hope that this will help you find the right nozzle for all your projects - happy printing! Store 3D Printers Assembly Required. Find the right nozzles to add to your collection for your next project as well as how to change a nozzle on your 3D printer. Add a Comment View Comments. Classification Generally speaking, nozzles are classified in the following ways: E3D The industry leader for quality hotends is E3Dwhich is why we recommend and sell their products to our customers makerbot print shop alternative an upgrade or as a replacement for a failing stock hotend.

E3D Standard Brass Nozzles. Nozzle Materials Nozzles are made from a makerbot print shop alternative of metals, and you should select a nozzle made from the type of metal that matches the type of filament you want to print with.

Here is a list of the makerbot print shop alternative metals used to make nozzles: Stainless steel - A step above brass, nozzles made from stainless steel are good if you want to print a wide range of types of filament, makerbot print shop alternative abrasives. Hardened steel - If you want to print nothing but abrasive materials, like our NylonX or ColorFabb bronzeFill for example, hardened steel nozzles are what you want.

Specialty materials - Other materials, like Tungsten and Rubyhave been used to make harder nozzles that can stand up to constant abrasion. These are for printing exclusively abrasive materials, and typically cost more than the other options. Range of Options Nozzles come in lots of different shapes and sizes, but they all perform the same function. Why have more than one size nozzle? You want to print a model quickly, so you use a bigger nozzle Your current nozzle gets clogged, and you need to replace it You want fine details, so you use a smaller nozzle.

E3D nozzles are 7mm, for reference Make sure the hot end is still hot when installing the new nozzle.

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Active topics Unanswered topics. Pages 1 2 Next. You must login or register to post a reply. Have not received my printer and new to to this. What alternative SW's could be used for the actual printing? Repetier Host, with Slic3r or Skeinforge - http: Cura, uses Skeinforge 50 - http: Netfabb Engine, euro - http: Haven't tried axon, but the general consensus seems to be repetier host with slic3r.

That is my favorite and mostly anyone who tries it agrees. Check out Ian's link, he does a great job introducing it. I tried your solution with Repetier but I now have a problem before even getting started using my solidoodle2. I am using Arduino and followed the steps all the way through in both Win7 and Mac Os Still getting:. Is there a way of fixing this or going back to the preloaded FW, I am desperate now and also posted on your blog.

If you have received that error, the upload did not work so your original firmware is still in place. Did you follow the instructions exactly as in the readme on github? I found this link: Let go of the reset button as soon as Arduino reports, "Binary sketch size: The firmware should now be accepted. An other think to check is the baudrate in the " Boards. Make sure that the drivers has been installed for the board. If this is ok, then you should see what port the board is using and use that one in arduino.

If all this is aleady ok, then make sure the right boars is added and selected in the arduino gui. I dont have to press the reset button, but you should try both, first of not pressing it. A upload takes about seconds for me, and you dont get any feedback before its done. Yes, that's my thought as well. I have checked the drivers in win7 and I can't upgrade the drivers by pointing out the files in However I can choose between 3 different drivers already recognized in windows from different dates.

Now I tried 2 drivers dates and both gave the same result. Unistalling the driver does not help, since windows locates the old or perhaps newer drivers from the registry. This problem is not seen when timing it right in Mac Os only Arduino installed , but there is another printout: Tried the mentioned combinations with the reset button and such.

I have tried to switch drivers too. I am sure that the COM-port is the right one because I can connect to the port in the solidoodle software. I also disconnected all wires from the board, except for the power. I have tried to flash it with and without power too. You should try posting to some Arduino forums. It's specifically an Arduino problem, and you will find a larger pool of expertise there. Meanwhile, try it with another computer if you have one available, to determine if it is a printer problem or computer problem.

One more thing, have you closed any other programs that communicate with the printer. If Pronterface has hogged the COM port, it might cause the error. I will now resort to Arduino forums as suggested, and get back in this thread if I get to work. However, it seems like I tried most things already. This id really strange because it's the first time anyone has posted up about this problem. Hopefully it's some minor little problem that seems silly in hindsight.

I also tried with my server server but no luck there either.. Could it be a problem with bit? My PC is Win7 64bit and I've used it to update the Solidoodle, a Replicator and flash a bunch of Arduino boards so that shouldn't be a problem. I use a Win-7 64 bit at home and at work. My Solidoodle is connected to my home PC using Windows 7 64 bit professional.

Check your programs and make sure you downloaded the 32 bit versions though. I recall something about the 64 bit versions not fully working properly. Your machine can run either 32 bit or 64 bit versions of software without issue but there are some things that do not always work in the 64 bit versions. Office from Microsoft has some compatibility issues with the 64 bit version. I've used my Solidoodle straight from the box since the first week of August with Gcode generated from my work PC as well as my home PC without issue.

I am using all the stock programs that were recommended by Solidoodle. If you continue to have issues, uninstall the programs and reinstall from their instructions using all the 32 bit versions of software and drivers. Im not having any problems with pronterface etc. After many tries I still can't upload the FW. So now i'm considering the next best thing I tried to configure Slic3r using Ian's instructions: However now the slic3r interface looks different latest version so I did my best to match this.

When I ran the generated g-code I ran in to trouble. Pronterface did not understand the file and I recieved "unknown command", and later moved the Z-axis all the way down where I unplugged the power to avoid damage.

Since I am unable to use the updated Marlin FW I assumed that the "Start g-code" and "End g-code" commands are the one to be used since home-command does not work? Does anyone have a setup using Slic3r and Pronterface who could share this as a package? I'm starting to loose faith I updated my firmware last night on a Win 7 64 Bit machine with no problem. I verified that my Com port was correct I am using COM8 and clicked the mouse to upload immediately after pressing and releasing the reset switch.

One thing I noticed is that the upload takes a while to complete. The Arduino program loader responds immediately with the Binary Sketch information but it takes a while to get the message that the upload is done. I researched the codes you were returning and the forums indicate that the com port is either not configured right or the correct com port is not selected.

Support have confirmed in other threads that they think there might be some microcontrollers with faulty bootloaders. The good news is you just have to replace the microcontroller, not the whole Sanguinololu board. You can get an upgraded straight swap P from the emaker shop fot not much at all with the bootloader already on.

Skip to forum content. You are not logged in. Please login or register. Pages 1 2 Next You must login or register to post a reply. RSS topic feed Posts: Kvirre Member Offline From: Alternative Printing-Software Hi, Have not received my printer and new to to this. IanJohnson Moderator Offline Registered: Alternative Printing-Software Slicing only- Slic3r - http: Needs unknown tweaks to control Solidoodle. Alternative Printing-Software Nice list! Which one would you recommend, and have anyone tried this Axon 2.

Alternative Printing-Software Haven't tried axon, but the general consensus seems to be repetier host with slic3r. Alternative Printing-Software Ian I tried your solution with Repetier but I now have a problem before even getting started using my solidoodle2 when upgrading the Marlin FW!

I am using Arduino and followed the steps all the way through in both Win7 and Mac Os Still getting: Alternative Printing-Software If you have received that error, the upload did not work so your original firmware is still in place.

I will test this as im back from work and post the outcome Alternative Printing-Software Still the same problem Try and upload without hitting reset also. Rondavouz Member Offline Registered: Alternative Printing-Software Rondavouz Yes, that's my thought as well.

What date does the driver have when using the correct one? Alternative Printing-Software I have tried all the methods, but I cant get it updated. I get either 0x00 or 0x15 error codes.